Wednesday, August 31, 2005

A Vilag Megismerheto

On the way to equipping myself to teach, I have returned to the pencil store many times. Every time, my friend and I -- still no idea on her name -- talk in English.

Today I asked if she wanted to eat ice cream sometime. She said yes, tomorrow. So I either have a first date or a definite sign that I am clinging to anything that remotely resembles either the English language or friendship.

Neighbor Erika teaches history or geography or something and speaks a little English. I can use her washing machine, I think that is what she said during our recent conversation. She wrote down my address on a piece of paper, which is fairly precious to finally have:

JEWETT Jeremy
Deak Fer. Ut 4
3360 Heves
Hungary

Weekly Wednesday markets in Heves are spectacular. I bought a shoulder bag and a bedsheet to cut up and use for decoration on my walls. Considering both the market experience this morning and a walk toward the "ghetto" on the western edge of town last night, I am led to believe that I am in a country more closely resembling Mexico than Europe. Poverty of and discrimination towards this town's beleaguered gypsy population will be "interesting to observe." Commentary to come only after I have formulated an informed opinion.

School starts tomorrow with a day-long celebration.

Tuesday, August 30, 2005

Könyvtar

I feel bad listing mundane things like "I bought bananas" or "I bought a pair of shoes" or "I went to the bookstore and bought two books" as a post of note. But these baby steps are such wonderful challenges / experiences / stories here.

Thrown into the fire, each first is worthy of celebration and a little progress made towards feeling at home. Understanding. Being a dash less starkly foreign.

The best step today, effectively reconnecting myself with the world outside of Heves and 100-character text messages, was discovering the town library! A second teacher named Peter, this one speaking German rather than English, showed me the town's "könyvtar." It's a small building across from the police station, just two blocks from my home. I paid the 800 forint ($4) yearly membership fee and got a hand-written membership card.

Internet service is glorious, although sketchy in a second-world sort of way. It fades in and out a lot. Even better, there are two whole shelves of English books, I'm confident that I'll get through all of them before my time here is done. War and Peace, for one, is sandwiched between Red Badge of Courage and something or other by Stephen King. I checked out Kerouac's On The Road, which I started in audio tape form in B-Mo's car over the summer. When I tried to finish it at home, I couldn't even get a copy of it at the Fond du Lac Public Library! I also got four copies of German books, I figure it best that I set out to improve rapidly.

And finally, rest assured that I am charming the womenfolk here.

One grandma owns a plant shop. Today, I stopped in for the second time and bought two plants. She started jabbering at me as I came to pay. I confessed that I don't speak Hungarian. "I know," she said in Hungarian with a wink.

Another 60-year-old woman owns a little pub that English Peter and I peeked into a day or two ago. Now every time I walk past I peek in again and shout out one of the seventeen Hungarian words I know. Sometimes I tell her the time, sometimes the day of the week. Each time she laughs and invites me in for a sör (beer). Sadly I have only made up excuses so far.

Monday, August 29, 2005

Jovitauti

It's wonderfully funny how much difference a day can make. Another tour with German-speaking folk, this time through the "gimnasium" itself. More than 1,200 students attend Heves' school, and about a hundred even live in dorms on campus. After the school tour and a meeting with the Russian-speaking Herr Direktor, tour guides Adel and Peter watched me eat lunch, that was really good fun. We bought groceries and an alarm clock. The later turned out not to work, so I had to return it to the cashier who spoke only Hungarian. The word "kaput," apparently, has international clout in getting the point across.

But perhaps the highlight was buying five pens and two small pads of paper at a local "school supply store." This is not Staples, but it'll get the job done. When I told the old woman at the counter "nem tudok Magyarul," she pulled a young woman out from a back room, who shyly said that she spoke a little English. I smiled out a quick "good," but what I really meant was some sort of "Hallelujah! Praise the Lord! Doesn't matter what kind of English you've got darling, just spit it out! Yes! English! Woo woo!"

I asked if she studied at the kozepiskola. She said that she used to, but now studies at a college in Eger. I asked her what her name is and she told me her name. I even had her repeat it several times, but all I could get out of it was the mumble of "jovitauti." I have no idea if that's a name. I have no idea if that's two names. But for the moment, I'm willing to cling onto it as the promise of an English-speaking friend.

I just have to start making some other friends so they can translate my first friend's name for me...

Sunday, August 28, 2005

Badogos

I have no idea what the word "badogos" (pronounced bahd-oh-gosh in these parts) means, but it certainly looks suspiciously like "Oh gosh, things are bad" to this American, wandering the dark streets of this little Hungarian town, absolutely alone.

Or, should I say, "allein." As if imposed by some sort of foreign invaders, German, not my prized English or the Hungarian that I am so forgiven for not understanding, might be my language of survival here. Agi, the deputy director or vice principal at Eötvös Joszef Közepiskola, met me as I made my first footstep onto the decidedly out-of-this-worldly soil of Heves. Her German was fast and sharp and harsh. Only slowly did I begin to realize that she wants me to teach German this year, in German mind you, in addition to English.

She explained the flat to me, I understood a significant percentage of what she said. I'll estimate half, probably as much or more than I actually need to understand at this point. We talked around a map for a while, Agi and I, and that was a little better. I believe I actually began to construct full sentences in German at that point. Barely, though. She blamed the hardship on jetlag, hoping I was just tired. I, on the other hand, have noticed a trend over the past seven years: the assumption of fluency. Sooner or later, hopefully everyone else will realize what I've long known, I'm not actually all that good at German.

Outside of being scared shitless and feeling more alone that I've felt since my first year at camp as a boy long ago, there are glimmers of hope. The first is that I've always said I like challenges. This might prove to be more of a soul-pounding expedition than previously assumed.

The second is Peter, the young English teacher who picked me up in Budapest. He seemed very nice, although the main topic of our conversation on the hour-and-a-half drive from the capital back to Heves was his lifelong, but as of yet unsuccessful attempt to leave Heves.

Third, the apartment seems livable. Improvable, of course, but livable. A large bedroom/living room/dining room is spacious, with wonderfully large windows that, I am guessing, face south. I don't really have my bearings yet. The kitchen is more of the end of a hallway than a room, but I am not a large man and will have no difficulty using it. And the bathroom seems quite delightful, the shower region actually has a curtain and a mounting for the water nozzle. I look forward to not having to take a shower sitting in a bathtub. Appliances provided include a t.v. with cable, a "Staubsaugen," microwave and refrigerator. I supplied the Connect 4 board and Twister mat and plan to add a CD player tomorrow. Modern conveniences I'll have to go without include any mirror larger than a sheet of paper, a washing machine and a computer/etc. Half the fun, I suppose.

All mention of the city of Heves, outside of the charming "Do not park your horse-drawn carriage or tractor here" sign (which I was able to understand through the pictures alone) will have to wait until further exploration tomorrow.

Yet-To-Be-Determined!

"A representative from Heves" will arrive at 2:30 this afternoon to whisk me away to my new home for a year, sight-unseen!

What a cliff we stand before. Adventure! Game on.

Saturday, August 27, 2005

No Pictures, but (the Book) has Words!

What I think I might just miss most about Budapest when we leave tomorrow, as I told Kat, is laughing with all these wonderful people.

Who knows if our inside jokes -- the little things, like teaching beginning English speakers about Hindu rebirth and cows -- will transcend our week together. I don't know if anyone other than Mariah and I will ever laugh as hard as we do over the simple thought of collecting swords. And bows. All weapons, most likely.

I hope they all laugh aplenty over the next year as we trade text messages back and forth from our little outposts with witty flashbacks like "Don't beat yourself up if you can't figure out how to grocery shop for the first month."

What great people. If I were a Hungarian child and forced to pick one of them for a year? It'd be a tough choice. Maybe Kat. Maybe Liz. Some darn good options.

Friday, August 26, 2005

Eliciting (Generative Situations)

You might think that all this educational methodology has gotten to me, but we've balanced the academia with a different manner of elicitation, as well, one that comes in a bottle: the merits of the liquors "bikaver" and "palinka." The former is the infamous Bull's Blood wine and the later is a brandy, often home-made, the bottle we chose was plum.

All week we had feigned ignorance to the innate beauty and culture behind Hungarian libations, but finally we were ready to sample and celebrate. I'm not going to lie and say that we were quiet after quiet hours in the dorm, but there's something to be said for singing "Sweet Child of Mine" in a foreign land with people who really understand.

Gaines and I, it could be said, lived up to our Delta Delta Delta/Delta Delta Iota sibling-hood, and took to hoarding the Bikaver as a chaser for the palinka long after everyone else gave up. It would stand to reason this is one of the major factors behind taking 25 pictures of ourselves on her digital camera and various other shenanigans. Outstanding.

Thursday, August 25, 2005

Domino Rally

we got our cell phones yesterday! we were like darn little kids at christmas, just sitting there, oblivious to anything other than punching numbers into the little toys.

despite my parents' concerns, it is free for me to receive your calls. feel free to treat that as an invitation. FYI, we're 7 hours ahead of the Central Time Zone.

Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Information Gap

"If you create curiosity amongst your students, it will inspire dialogue and a passion for learning." 


Sounds reasonable, not too hard to see the merit of this so-called information gap, even if they keep stressing how rigid much of the Hungarian educational system is.
What is this Eötvös József Középiskola all about? What will life in Heves be like? Akh, and it's not just me. We are all so curious about our cities, our apartments, our schools, our schedules, our new lives ahead!

And if you are an eager teacher, knowing nothing more than the name of a city, a little dot on a map, you've certainly got an information gap on your hands.

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

Passion

The secret came out of the bag today. I walked to the front of the classroom, smiled at everyone and said "My name's Jeremy." In Hungarian, of course, which makes it much more impressive.

Then I drew on the board a small circle about a foot east of Budapest, a few inches south of the city of Eger. "And I'm going to be living in Heves this year."

Everyone smiled and nodded, as if a truth had been revealed. Then Hajni, our country director, laughed. "Heves is the Hungarian word for 'PASSION!' You will have a good year."

So ordained, I'm even more excited to trample off to Heves, gaze over the wine-producing Valley of Beautiful Women and get to the business at hand: a bit of Hungarian passion.

Or teaching English to 7th-12th graders in the little town of Heves, whichever comes first.

Monday, August 22, 2005

Expats

Just like forsaken ex-patriots, we sat around a table tonight, sampling the beers and wines of this land that likes its beers and wines. Janos brought his Hungarian heritage to our discussion, which was mostly our questions and his possible answers. Mariah and Adrianne are endearing, their company and conversation was the perfect debrief of so much stimuli. Loving the collection of people in the Kollegium.

Sunday, August 21, 2005

Sweet People

The first time Brent, my roommate here in Budapest, said the phrase "sweet people," I probably rolled my eyes. But by the third time he'd thrown out a sentence like "my friends are sweet people," I couldn't help but smile, reluctantly swayed to a favored new phrase.

And those I'm meeting most certainly are sweet people. This morning started fairly lonely, I trampled alone up a hill...in the rain...to see a fort. But by evening time the collegium was alive with future teachers of English. They seem amazing and remind me of the sweet people I've meet on the road to the right here, right now. Chad has Tim Schwartz's infectious creative energy. Kat is Heather Jordan in all the good ways and has Jenny Reidy's wonderfulness. Liz has Megan's smile and borrows everything else from H. Emily is Gabby and Bumble mixed into one. And Gaines is most certainly an elder Emmaline, albeit with a little Lindsay Featherstone sprinkled in for good measure.

Saturday, August 20, 2005

Under and Above the River Danube

made it to Budapest safe and sound! yesterday, we watched a boat sink on the Danube. (apparentlz it's important, when on a fast-moving river, to anchor off the bow of your boat, as opposed to the low-profile stern...) then we watched both an air show and fireworks above the Danube. hungarians know how to celebrate the signing of a constitution! today Eva is driving me to Eotvos Collegium because she won't be able to tomorrow morning before she goes to work. then the real adventure begins. hungarian is marginallz improving. be forewarned, though, that z and y are switched on hungarian computers!